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Marc Jacobs

It Takes a Village

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Marc Jacobs' apparel and accessories are at the cutting edge of fashion. So when it comes to choosing a store location, the designer prefers to be on the cutting edge of that, too – taking chances on unproven neighborhoods.

When the retailer sought its second Manhattan location, it chose Bleecker Street in the West Village, a neighborhood featuring many three- and four-story 19th Century brick and wood-framed buildings. The ground-floor spaces, now apartments, had once comprised a thriving retail community that had since fled the neighborhood.

Nonetheless, in 2000, the Marc Jacobs organization and designer Stephan Jaklitsch (New York) began transforming an old masonry building at Bleecker and 11th Street into its first freestanding men's store. When the adjacent space became available, a women's store was added that connects to the men's store. A third Marc Jacob's space, a block down, at the corner of Perry and Bleecker became a home for accessories in 2002.

During these four years, a unique relationship has developed between architect and retailer as each space has been designed and then continuously tweaked (a process that continues today). “Marc Jacobs has grown quite fast in the past few years, introducing new merchandise almost every season,” says Jaklitsch. “So there's a need to go back and address the display needs of any new merchandise.”

Starting at the original location, the retailer engaged the store with the street via a glass and steel corner storefront façade. The same was done at the accessories store. Referencing archival photographs, designers were careful to use scale and materials on the exterior that were in context to the historic neighborhood.

Inside, however, designers opted for a more contemporary design that better fits the fashion line. The men's store offers an intimate and warm jewel-box space, anchored by a walnut-paneled wall at the rear of the store. (This wall ultimately became a unifying element for all three spaces.) Custom-designed, stainless-steel rolling racks, lacquered wood shelving and furniture designed by Christian Liaigre fill the space, which features an ebonized oak floor.

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The long, narrow women's store has the same oak floor and walnut wall treatments, but a crisper style, including sharp angled fixtures and hot-rolled steel door frames, rather than the mahogany used in men's.

“We wanted each store to be a distinct space and, yet, have certain common characteristics,” says Jaklitsch. “That's why it was important to adjust the detailing.”

This effort was taken to a new level in the accessories store, where an overriding white palette gives the space its own character. White marble replaces the oak flooring, and hanging display units placed around the interior walls hold merchandise at eye level.

As Marc Jacobs has evolved over the years, adding new fashion lines, the stores have undergone renovations to reflect the changing merchandise. A new stainless-steel hanging fixturing system has replaced the rolling racks and the Marc by Marc Jacobs line's signature blue color now decorates the paneled rear wall and floor in the men's and women's spaces.

And now, the once-deserted neighborhood has been transformed, as well. Such high-concept brands as Cynthia Rowley, Intermix and Fresh have taken up residence, restoring the neighborhood to its interesting, bohemian roots.

“The buildings on Bleecker between 11th and Perry are beginning to be turned back into retail,” says Jaklitsch, “and it's adding a lot of life to the street.”

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Marc Jacobs 403 Bleecker St.:

Design: Stephan W. Jaklitsch Design Inc., New York
Stephan Jaklitsch, principal
Takeshi Kamiya, project manager
Daniela Arrigoni, Sascha Hoepfner, design team

Outside Design Consultants: Christian Liaigre, Paris, furniture designer
David Apfel Lighting Design, New York, lighting designer
Weiskopf & Pickworth, LLP, New York, structural engineer
Joseph Loring & Associates, Inc., New York, MEP engineer

General Contractor: CASE Allied Construction, Inc., New York
Custom steel storefront, trim, structural steel
Deegan Welding Inc., New York

Custom millwork at storefront: Aytan Diamond Cabinetry, New York

American walnut veneer paneling and mahogany jambs: Aytan Diamond Cabinetry, New York

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Security glass and mirrors: American Glass, New York

Signage: Sign Solutions, New York

Hardware: Rixson Speciality Door Controls, Franklin Park, Ill.
Baldwin Hardware Corporation, Reading, Pa.

Ebonized oak flooring: Target Wood Floor, New York

Awning: Acme Awning, New York

Furniture: Christian Liaigre, Paris

Custom air grille: Wainland's Inc., New York

Custom rolling racks: Wainland's Inc., New York

Custom steel convector covers: Wainland's Inc.,New York

Lighting: Bruck Lighting Systems, Costa Mesa, Calif.

Existing cast-iron columns refurbished and sealed: Ming Painting Co., New York

Honed black granite entry ramp: Ampol Marble, New York

Paint: Benjamin Moore, Montvale, N.J.

Marc Jacobs 405 Bleecker St.:

Design: Stephan Jaklitsch Design Team Inc., New York
Stephan Jaklitsch, principal
John Barbato, project manager
Daniela Arrigoni, Sonia Moon, design team

Outside Design Consultants: Christian Liaigre, Paris, furniture designer
David Apfel Lighting Design, New York, lighting designer
Anchor Consulting, West Orange, N.J., structural engineer
Joseph Loring & Associates, Inc., New York, MEP Engineer

General Contractor: CASE Allied Construction, Inc., New York

American walnut veneer paneling: Aytan Diamond Cabinetry, New York

Custom Steel Door Jambs and Pulls: Deegan Welding Inc., New York

Custom air grille: Wainland's Inc, New York

Hardware: Speciality Door Controls, Franklin Park, Ill.

Mirrors: American Glass, New York

Ebonized oak flooring: Target Wood Floors, New York

Custom rolling racks: Wainland's Inc., New York

Lighting: Bruck Lighting Systems, Costa Mesa, Calif.

Marc Jacobs 385 Bleecker St.:

Design: Stephan Jaklitsch Design Team Inc., New York
Stephan Jaklitsch, principal
John Barbato, project manager
Eleonora Di Martino, Sascha Hoepfner, Sonia Moon, design team

Outside Design Consultants: Christian Liaigre, Paris, furniture designer
Filament33 Inc., New York, lighting designer
Anchor Consulting, West Orange, N.J., structural engineer
Joseph Loring & Associates, Inc., New York, MEP Engineer

General Contractor: Taocon, Inc., New York

Custom steel storefront: Rollner Architectural Metals, Brooklyn, N.Y.

Security glass: Zecca Mirror + Glass, Bronx, N.Y.

Signage: Sign Solutions, New York

Hardware: Rixson Speciality Door Controls, Franklin Park, Ill.
Baldwin Hardware Corp., Reading, Pa.

Awning: Acme Awning, New York
Lighting Services Inc., Lighting Services Inc, N.Y.
, Huntington Beach, Calif.
Lightolier, Fall River, Mass.

Back-lit translucent Starfire glass wall: Zecca Mirror + Glass, Bronx, N.Y.

Marble Flooring: Superior Stone, New York

Furniture: Richter + Ratner Productions Inc., Maspeth, N.Y.
Dejah Enterprises Inc., Smithtown, N.Y.

Photography: Don Freeman, New York
Paul Warchol, New York

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